American
Whiskey
FRIDAY - OCTOBER 20, 2000 THIS IS SUCH a beautiful weekend that John wanted to get a head start on our annual shopping and autumn foliage viewing trip. At work this morning he manages to find two people to take his afternoon duty so he can take off for a half-day vacation. We knew that Mike Veach was planning on meeting with Greg and Jo Kitzmiller this evening at D.Marie's in Louisville, so after doing some last-minute planning we called Mike to arrange meeting up with them there. We head out around 4:00 to see the fall leaves and do us some bourbon shopping. We immediately run into trouble, in the form of heavy traffic on I-75. This is not just your everyday rush-hour traffic; it’s a total standstill. We finally leave the freeway at Union Centre, only to find traffic jammed up everywhere. By the time we get back on I-75, the traffic is better, but we’ve lost about half an hour or more. More traffic through Erlanger, Florence, and Richwood lasts nearly all the way to the I-71/75 split and brings us to the Warsaw exit about an hour and a half later than we’d planned. The "pleasant ride along beautiful, fall-leaved, country roads" has now become a high-pressure, concentrated rush. Squinting into the setting sun, we race past the silhouettes of the lovely autumn trees we’d come to see. Tempers on edge, we pass non-stop through the two or three towns with liquor stores we’d wanted to visit, knowing we won’t have time to spend looking through them. We don’t even stop to secure a motel room in Jeffersonville (across the river from Louisville) as we’d planned; it turns out to be a good thing, as we will learn later. We arrive at the Galt House hotel in Louisville at around 8:00, taking the elevator to D. Marie’s Bar on the 25th floor where we join Mike, Greg, and Jo who had, themselves, arrived only a few minutes earlier. Julian Van Winkle and Brenda Piercefield were supposed to be there as well, but they didn’t make it. In fact, the reason the other three were late was that they’d been visiting with Julian and his sister Sally at the Party Mart, a liquor store where she was holding a signing session for her book. Julian was giving samples of his bourbon there, too, taking advantage of a recent change in Kentucky law. D.Marie’s is Mike’s favorite hangout, and his equivalent of our bourbon room downstairs. It’s easy to see why. The lounge is dedicated to the bourbon enthusiast who wants to explore and compare different brands. In that respect, you could hardly imagine a better environment. First of all, they have what they claim is the largest selection of bourbon whiskey in America, and we can easily believe it. Their list, which covers two pages (small print; single space) in their guest handout brochure features over 120 brands, and they’re all on display behind the bar. Also on display behind the bar (and other locations in the room) is a breathtaking panoramic view of Louisville, as seen from twenty five stories up. The back bar and the "pit" are built low so that the view is not obstructed. The brochure also features a brief history and description of bourbon. The prices are very reasonable for the grade of bourbons being offered, ranging from $4.00 for about half the brands to $5.50 - $6.50 for most of the others, with just a few really rare and expensive brands going for $8.00, $14.00 and $28.00 a serving. They also offer what they call tasting portions, which are ½ ounce servings of two or more brands, for half-price. The staff is first-class all the way. Our bartender, Kathy (or Kate), is a bright young lady who gives the impression that she knows more about bourbon than she actually admits to. She also has an entertainer’s knack for knowing just when to become part of the conversation and to just what degree. When we have visitors to our home and we’re tasting from our collection, we’d be honored and complimented if they left feeling as well-hosted as we feel at Kate’s place (and we don’t even charge our guests). With a degree in hotel and restaurant management, Kate is always on the lookout for opportunities to expand into marketing, and specifically beverage marketing. She mentions this to us in conversation, and Greg just lights up. Greg’s an instructor and lecturer of Marketing at Indiana University, and a writer/lecturer on international food and beverage marketing. Needless to say, they have lots to talk about beyond just what bourbons we’re all drinking. And the bourbons we we’re all drinking…
Well, Mike has a commitment to Linn Spencer to do a web-publishable tasting
of Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit and another for Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel,
so he does those pretty seriously without getting involved in tasting other
brands until he’s finished. Greg and Jo are tasting brands they
haven’t tried before, as well as a few they have tried and really, really
liked. That’s exactly what we do, too. Brands we get to taste for the
first time include:
We also try some that we are already familiar with, mainly to allow the others to taste them. They are Old Bourbon Hollow 100-proof bottled-in-bond and Original Barrel Brand 107-proof. Both are officially declared "pooh-pooh" by everyone else. We play "Stump the Veach", and offer a selection that becomes only the second one to ever succeed in stumping Mike’s powers of identification. The bourbon is Bulleit Thoroughbred 100-proof (not the current Bulleit Frontier Bourbon made by Four Roses). We give Mike the clue that it is no longer being made and even offer a "half-prize" honorable mention if he can determine the distillery (another of Mike’s talents). We stump him on both counts. Unable to identify the bourbon, he offers that it must have been made by Jim Beam. The old Bulleit (both the Thoroughbred and a 90-proof offering) were produced by Ancient Age until just a couple years ago. Although, with Mike’s talent and knowledge, and the propensity of distillers to move product back and forth among themselves, we would not be at all surprised if we later learn that Ancient Age just happened to bottle this particular brand with some whiskey they’d acquired from Jim Beam! We mention that we’ve not yet arranged for a place to stay tonight, and Greg suggests we try the Holiday Inn in Shively, where they’re staying. We had intended to start right out heading north through Indiana tomorrow and had hoped to get a motel closer to our route, but our minds change instantly when Mike offers to take us with them for a tour of the old Shively distilleries tomorrow morning. I quickly call the Holiday Inn and secure a reservation, taking Greg’s suggestion to use him as a reference in getting a discounted rate. That’s how we manage to get a lovely room for only thirty-five dollars. We don’t get to sleep in it very long, though, as we end up staying at D.Marie’s until nearly half past midnight.
SATURDAY - OCTOBER 21, 2000
Mike meets us in the lobby and we all head out to pile into his jeep. We’ve had really lovely, warm, sunny weather for the past several days, but today it’s overcast and quite cool. That makes riding in the open jeep a little chilly, but not really uncomfortable. Also, except for Jo, we’re all none too skinny. Somehow John’s lucky enough to be appointed shotgun rider, leaving Greg, Jo, and Linda to squeeze into the back seat. No one complained, though.
Mike grew up in Shively, and he knows the place intimately as a lifetime
resident, not just as an historian specializing in old Kentucky distilleries,
many of which were located here. With the exception of Early Times, which
we really don’t see since the gate is locked and you can’t see
much from that location, most of these old places are either abandoned, empty
shells or are being used by other manufacturing outfits.
The first place we visit is the site of Glencoe, which was originally the Stitzel Distillery until Phil Stitzel and his brother Fred built the Stitzel Brothers Distillery in 1906. When that happened this plant was sold to Phil Hollenbeck and one William LaRue Weller (who would later form even closer ties to Phil Stitzel, resulting in the distillery that will be our next stop). They made the Glencoe brand here, along with Fortuna and one or two others. The building looks like an abandoned shell now.
Mike next takes us to the site of the Stitzel-Weller Distillery. Besides
being physically located closeby, it also makes for a good historic and logical
"next destination". The sons of the builder of Glencoe had sold it and built
a distillery of their own. And although there is no longer any trace of the
A. Ph. Stitzel Distillery, Phil and Fred Stitzel operated it for nearly thirty
years, right through prohibition (as a producer of medicinal whiskey).
In fact, it never did close.
From here, we drive down Ralph Avenue to the corner of Dixie Highway and
stop to take some pictures of the three or four remaining brick warehouses
of the old Four Roses distillery. Then we move on to Early Times, just a
couple hundred yards up the street. It’s Saturday and the gate is locked,
so we aren’t able to drive in to where any pictures could be taken. From here, Mike drives us to an industrial area where we turn down a short gravel access road to a parking area where we can see, all around us, no less than four plants that had once been well-known bourbon distilleries. Directly in front of us stands a group of buildings where people are going in and out to work. Whatever the buildings are being used for today, this was once the site of Hill and Hill, a well-known bourbon distillery that John remembers from as recently as maybe twenty-five years ago. Mike explains that they had both brick and iron-clad warehouses, and examples of both are still standing. The iron-clads are obviously abandoned, but the brick buildings appear to be in use.
From here we can also see some of the brick warehouses of the Seagram’s
distillery, and the remaining iron-clads of the old Yellowstone plant. As
we leave, we stop at the head of this gravel road to get a good look at the
original Bernheim distillery,
From Bernheim, we drive out to the front part of two of the distilleries
we’d just seen. We visit the beautiful, Roman-columned, limestone marble
faced office of whatever now occupies the old Seagram’s main office.
As Greg and John are poking around taking pictures, a gentleman from the
plant approaches to see what we’re doing and we explain our purpose. He
tells us that they now use this facility only to make vinegar and wine. The
vinegar accounts for the stainless steel tanks seen around the main buildings,
and the wine production is growing steadily, amounting to 275,000 gallons last
year. As we move over toward the jeep, Mike introduces himself and they find
that they are both United Distillers’ alumni. It’s amazing how many other people
in this business belong to that embittered club, as they rattle
Driving back to the Holiday Inn, we pass a couple more of
Shively’s distillery ghosts, finally arriving in time for Greg and Jo to begin
the rest of their trip, which was supposed to have started some two hours ago.
We say goodbye to them, and then accompany
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Story and original photography copyright © 2000 by John F. Lipman. All rights reserved. |
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